9 Check Patterns used in Men's Shirting

The simplest, and most commonly found, checked fabric used in men’s tailoring is the ‘graph check’ - named due to its resemblance to graph paper. The graph check pattern is characterised by a single colour uniform grid on a plain, often white, base. A white shirt with a navy blue grid, which is conservative and subtle, is a staple in most men’s wardrobes. Other variations include red, green, yellow, and pink checks, amongst others. Usually, the boxes of the graph check are small, around a quarter of an inch, and the general rule is that the bigger the squares the more casual the shirt. Graph check shirts can be worn with a tie.

When a graph check contains larger squares, the pattern may be referred to as windowpane, referencing older fashioned windows that had divided panes. Window pane checks feature a single colour fine lined check on a plain background. Due to the larger size of the check, garments with windowpane checks are considered less formal than a graph check. Windowpane woollen waistcoats and jackets are a classic wardrobe staple of the traditional English country gentleman. Although similar to the graph check, the grid formed by the crossing lines of the windowpane pattern often creates rectangles rather than perfect squares. These rectangles are always longer in the vertical dimension, tall rather than wide, which can create a subtle sense of added height in the wearer.

Next up in terms of complexity is the Tattersall check, which is the same as a graph check but it involves lines of two or more different colors. Some possibilities are blue and black, green and blue, red and blue, or orange and blue to name just a few. The lines that make up a tattersall can be of different thicknesses or solidity, being clearly defined or faded back, but the size of the squares they form is always uniform. The Tattersall pattern is named after Richard Tattersall, who founded a London horse market in 1766 which remains to be the leading auctioneer of horses in Europe today. The fabric known as Tattersall was originally used for horse blankets in the late 18th century before seeing more widespread use. Tattersall is mostly used for shirts and waistcoats, and has a traditional association with British country style, which is not surprising given its origin. Tattersall can be worn for rural pursuits but also in an office environment due to its ease of being matched with a tie.

Gingham (sometimes called “Vichy” in Europe) is the simplest of the checks involving thicker lines, in this case, generally a single colour crossing on a white background. Blue tends to be the most popular, though many colors of gingham are possible. When the colored lines cross one another, they result in darker versions of the color, adding richness. Ignoring the connotation of gingham with Italian restaurant tablecloths, Gingham is a lighthearted, casual check which is ideal for the summertime. Gingham shirts should not be worn with a tie, or with garments of a contrasting colour.

As its name implies, shepherd’s check is another rural pattern, this one originally used by Scottish shepherds on the border with England, so we have one check that originated with horse blankets (Tattersall) and another with sheep blankets. Shepherd’s check looks almost like a gingham but is distinguished by the visibility of a twill pattern. That is, you can see the texture of the weave intersecting the squares, which makes the pattern more complex and textural. As with gingham, shepherd’s check usually appears as a single colour on a white ground. Again, like with Gingham, the Shepherd’s check is usually an informal, casual-wear fabric.

Traditionally, a gun club check meant four colors of crossing lines–black, rust, gold, and green - designed as an homage to the colours present in the landscape of the Highlands (as a kind of hunter’s camouflage). However, these days, it’s equally common to find gun club checks in only two colors, usually brown and blue, though such patterns are sometimes incorrectly labelled as shepherd’s checks, so identification can be tricky.